Sport Climbing

What Is Back-Clipping?

Back-clipping is a dangerous lead-climbing error where the rope is clipped through a quickdraw the wrong way, so it runs up against the carabiner's gate side rather than the spine. In a fall, the rope can press the gate open and unclip itself from the draw. Climbers learn to clip so the rope exits over the front of the carabiner.

What Is Active Protection?

Active protection is trad climbing gear with moving parts that grips the rock through a spring mechanism — chiefly spring-loaded camming devices (cams). It can protect parallel-sided and flaring cracks where passive gear won't hold, at the cost of more weight, expense, and maintenance. It contrasts with passive protection like nuts.

What Is Passive Protection?

Passive protection is trad climbing gear with no moving parts that holds by wedging into a constriction in the rock — chiefly nuts and hexes. It is light, cheap, and durable, and works best where a crack pinches down. It contrasts with active protection like cams, which use a spring mechanism to grip.

What Is Fall Factor in Climbing?

Fall factor is a number describing the severity of a climbing fall, calculated as the distance fallen divided by the length of rope available to absorb it. It ranges from 0 to about 2 — higher factors mean harsher, higher-force falls. Because it depends on rope length, a short fall low on a pitch can be more severe than a longer one higher up.

What Is Anchor Equalization?

Equalization is the principle of rigging a climbing anchor so the load is shared between its individual points rather than resting on one. A well-equalized anchor distributes force across two or more pieces, adding redundancy so no single point is overloaded. It is a core concept in anchor building, alongside redundancy and limiting extension.

What Is a Climbing Anchor?

An anchor is the system of connected points — bolts, removable gear, or natural features — that secures climbers to the rock for belaying, rappelling, or top-roping. A sound anchor is redundant, equalized, and strong enough to hold any expected load. Building reliable anchors is one of the most safety-critical skills in climbing.

What Is a Piton?

A piton is a metal spike that a climber hammers into a crack and clips for protection — an older form of gear largely replaced by removable cams and nuts on free climbs. Pitons are still used in aid climbing and remain fixed on many classic routes, but because hammering them damages rock, their use is now limited.

What Is a Climbing Bolt?

A bolt is a permanent anchor point drilled and fixed into the rock, used in sport climbing for protection and at the tops of routes for anchors. A climber clips a quickdraw to the bolt's hanger and the rope to the draw. Bolts make hard climbing accessible, but where and whether they're placed is governed by local ethics and access rules.

What Is an Ice Screw?

An ice screw is a hollow, threaded tube that an ice climber twists into solid ice to create protection or build an anchor. Modern screws have a hanger and a fold-out crank for fast placement with one hand. Their holding power depends entirely on ice quality, so reading the ice is as important as the placement itself.

What Is a Sling in Climbing?

A sling, or runner, is a loop of strong nylon or Dyneema webbing used throughout climbing — to extend protection and reduce rope drag, build anchors, attach to the rock, and carry gear. Slings come sewn in standard lengths and are a fundamental, versatile part of any climbing kit.